2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38
Very often the following situation occurs in the kitchen: do you need to turn on the kettle? Unplug the microwave! Does the electric ignition of the stove not work? As soon as we turn off the kettle, it will work! Agree, this is very inconvenient, impractical, time-consuming and still unsafe. Wiring in the kitchen is more important than anywhere else in the house, and the mistress underfoot needs extension cords the least. Therefore, if it comes to repair, the wiring must be put in order without fail
We draw up a work plan
Like everything related to construction, renovation starts on paper. We draw a kitchen plan, taking into account all the equipment that is available or will be bought. We take into account the equipment that is used periodically (blender, coffee grinder, mixer, etc.), a stationary kitchen and a TV with all the necessary devices for it (TV tuner, DVD), if any are planned in the kitchen. Nowadays, most people tend to replace old surround TVs with new, thin plasma TVs. Plasma TVs have the ability to connect to the Internet and this must also be taken into account in the planning process.
We calculate the power of the wiring that we need
We decided on the arrangement, now we turn to the main calculations: the wiring power that we need. In the characteristics of household appliances, we find out their power / electricity consumption, which is measured in kW / h:
- 1, 2 / LED lighting --0, 1 kWh
- 3 / Hood --0, 3 kW / h
- 4 / Electric ignition --0, 2 kW / h
- 5 / Oven - 2 kW / h
- 6 / Dishwasher - 1 kW / h
- 7 / Kettle –2 kW / h
- 8 / Refrigerator - 0.3 kW / h
- 9 / TV set - 0.3 kWh
- 10 / Microwave - 1.5 kW / h
- 11 / Mixer / blender - 0.3 kWh.
* The list provided as an example is not accurate and may vary significantly depending on the model of household appliances that you plan to use.
Total: total consumption 8 kW / h.
The power of an electric cable changes with a change in cross-section. The cable cross-section is the cut-off area of the current-carrying conductor, measured in mm ^ 2. If we exclude complex calculations of voltages, coefficients of simultaneity, etc., then the calculation formula can be simplified: the total consumption is divided by 2. In our case, 8/2 = 4 mm ^ 2, so a cable with a cross section of 4 mm ^ 2 will cope and not overheat, even if all household appliances are turned on at the same time. If the calculation is not so accurate, then you should choose the section, rounding up.
Next step: tagging the wiring
At this stage, we pick up a regular drawing chalk and go to paint on the walls. We find the junction box and draw the path along which we will conduct the wiring, not forgetting to take into account the light switch. In no case should the path pass diagonally, since there is a high probability that in a year a nailed shelf, cornice, picture or wall clock will de-energize the kitchen and doom it to new repairs. So, strictly at right angles, parallel to the ceiling and walls, we create a diagram. But not everywhere you need a wire with the cross section that was calculated earlier, only from the main power cable to the junction box in the room.
Wires of different cross-sections should go from the central junction box, depending on the load at individual points. In this example, it looks like this. Having drawn this diagram, it is easy to calculate how many and what kind of wires are needed, where sockets with grounding are required, where they are simple. You can also add 1-2 sockets for chargers, a laptop just in case. In the calculation of the length, add 10 cm for each box and socket for connecting work.
Calculated, purchased, we can proceed with the installation and continue the repair.
Small nuances that may come in handy:
-If the "housekeeper" or LED light is blinking, then most likely the switch has LED backlighting. The minimum amount of electricity closes the circuit, and the light bulb tries to "start". This greatly reduces the time it takes to work. If you do not want to change the switch, it is enough to turn off the backlight (cut out the light bulb in the switch).
-If the TV assumes an Internet connection, it is better to run the wires in the wall, one way with the cable wire. And of course, it is better to have one outlet, and not two sockets for each connection.
At the moment, there are no single TV sockets with sockets for connecting to cable and the Internet, but there are sockets for connecting the Internet + telephone.
"With a slight movement of the hand" the filling for the telephone connection is removed and the antenna cable is threaded, direct connection to the TV. The Internet cable (twisted pair) is already connected, as expected, to the socket.
- After collecting all wiring, reconnect all sockets and check before filling. If all is well, disconnect the wiring in the central box - this will secure the construction work, right up to the wallpapering process, if not, it will be easy to change something. Before gluing the wallpaper (final painting), vacuum all the sockets, junction boxes, and after gluing, connect the wiring and finally assemble the sockets.
- There are appliances that never turn off (oven, electric ignition, refrigerator). Don't be afraid to hide these outlets behind cabinets. It is enough to cut a rectangle of a suitable shape in the back wall of the cabinet for access in case of force majeure.
Successful designs and quality repairs!
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