Carnation Shabo From A To Z

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Video: Carnation Shabo From A To Z

Video: Carnation Shabo From A To Z
Video: GROWING Carnation and TIPS for MAXIMUM Flowers! 2024, May
Carnation Shabo From A To Z
Carnation Shabo From A To Z
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Carnation Shabo from A to Z
Carnation Shabo from A to Z

The elegant, fragrant Shabo carnation is held in high esteem by flower growers. I offer step-by-step instructions for growing a carnation from sowing to flowering

Why you need to plant a carnation

Among the clove species, Shabo is the leader in the duration of flowering, in the Moscow region it is July-September. Bud formation ends when the temperature drops to +10. Intense aroma, bluish-green foliage and large flowers make the carnation an exquisite decoration of the site.

Shabo is an unpretentious annual plant that looks harmoniously in any combination, ideal for planting on flower beds, mixborders, used for edging paths.

Buds on long legs, rise 50-60 cm. The blossoming flower is densely double, 5-7 cm in diameter. The petals have a corrugated appearance and a serrated fringe. They are located in loose carpal inflorescences, 2-5 pcs. Peduncles are strong, do not break or bend from wind and rain, they stand for a long time in the cut (7-10 days).

Carnation Shabo has many hybrid varieties, the color palette of which is quite large: from rich bright and dark tones to soft pastel and variegated. Popular colors are red, beige, burgundy, yellow, pink, white. When planting different varieties on a flower bed, an original composition is obtained.

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The seeds are sold as mono varieties and mixes. I will list the popular hybrids that have a shorter growing season (from sowing to flowering 4 months):

• Mont Blanc;

• Pikoti Dionysus;

• Champagne;

• Watercolor;

• Etencilan;

• Rosina;

• Benigna;

• Knight;

• Luminescent;

• Pikoti Lyon;

• Nero.

Planting a carnation

Carnation Shabo is a perennial plant, grown as an annual crop in temperate climates. It has a long growing season, therefore it is cultivated using seedlings. If desired, the bushes can be stored until next season. With the onset of cold weather (in October), the carnation is dug up and brought into the house for the winter. The most commonly used seedling method.

Growing from seeds

Difficulties consist of early sowing, additional lighting and double picking. If you plan to get the first buds in early July, sowing is carried out in early February. Carnation Shabo is a light-similar crop, so the seeds are not buried, but spread over the soil surface.

A purchased seedling mixture or self-prepared soil is used: humus / garden soil + peat + sand (2: 2: 1). The work consists of three points: moistening the soil, distributing seeds at intervals of 2 cm, covering with polyethylene / glass. The desired temperature for germination is + 18 … + 20.

When shoots appear (on days 4-5), the cover is removed and the backlight is installed. Watering is carried out with a spray bottle. So that the sprouts stretch less, the temperature is lowered, the ideal option is + 12 … + 15.

Pick and pinch

Before transplanting into open ground, plants must be dived into cups / cassettes, it is advisable to do this twice. The first planting takes place when 2-3 pairs of true leaves are reached (2-3 weeks after germination).

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The second pick is called transshipment. The plant is transferred with a lump of earth into a larger container. To build up lateral shoots, increase bushiness, pinching is done. The top of the stem is removed above the third pair of leaves.

Landing in the ground

Carnations are planted in a permanent place when there is no threat of frost, usually at the end of May, beginning of June. The place for the seedlings is cleared of weeds, the soil is dug up with the addition of humus, nitrogen fertilizers are applied.

Planting step 25 cm or count 14-16 pcs. per sq. / m. During planting, try not to disturb the root system, use the transshipment method.

Shabo carnation care

Abundant flowering depends on the regularity of fertilizing, timely watering of the correct formation. A fluffy bush is obtained by pinching the lateral shoots over 3-4 pairs of leaves, while the axillary processes remain intact.

The second method of formation is pinching, which is carried out throughout the warm season: when the first inflorescences appear above the sixth node, lateral shoots are removed / broken. To obtain larger flowers, the upper bud is left on the stem, the rest / lateral ones are cropped.

The duration of bud formation depends on the timely removal of wilting flowers and seed bolls. Top dressing is done with aqueous solutions of Humate, nitrophoska, complex flower fertilizers.

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