2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38
It is very offensive when the seedlings nurtured in indoor or greenhouse conditions, after transplanting to the beds, begins to hurt, wither, dry. Surely every experienced gardener has his own proprietary techniques that allow you to avoid this trouble. But what does a beginner need to know so that transplanting green pets does not turn into a disaster for them?
Preparing the beds for planting seedlings
Those who are engaged in the cultivation of early vegetables in greenhouse conditions should change or disinfect the old soil every season. You can heal the soil both in autumn and spring. To do this, use copper sulfate - 2 tablespoons each. l. means for 10 liters of water. This amount is enough to process 10 sq. M. the area of the beds. But in addition to the earth, the greenhouse frame, film or polycarbonate should also be processed. After this procedure, the greenhouse is not opened for 2-3 days.
Garden beds in the open field are prepared in a different way. It is recommended to transplant seedlings to a permanent place on a cloudy day. But if a week before that the weather forecast also portends gloomy cold days, the soil in the garden should be covered with a black film. Such protection will protect the ground from the state of slush in the event of heavy rains, as well as accumulate heat and allow the soil to warm up to the optimum temperature at the required depth.
In addition, you need to get your gardener's diary and refresh your memory which garden crops were grown last year and where they were located in order to ensure a healthy fruit change on your site. You should choose such predecessors for the current seedlings:
• tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, potatoes - cucumbers, peas, lettuce;
• pumpkins, zucchini, cucumbers - potatoes, beans, beans;
• cabbage, radishes, radishes - root vegetables, cucumbers, zucchini.
We keep the distance
In order for the plants to have enough nutritional area, they did not compete for moisture and sunlight, and conditions were not created for the reproduction of pathogens, a certain distance must be maintained between plantings. This applies not only to root crops, which can abut against each other with round sides, but also to plants with aboveground fruits. The scheme for planting seedlings is also based on the varietal characteristics of garden crops:
• tomatoes - small holes are prepared according to the scheme 40x40 cm, medium 50x60 cm, high 60x70 cm;
• eggplants - for undersized ones they dig holes at a distance of 40x60 cm, for an average one 45x65 cm, for tall ones 50x70 s;
• pepper - small holes are made according to the scheme 35x50 cm, medium 45x60 cm, high 60x70 cm;
• planting holes for cucumbers are arranged in a checkerboard pattern - weakly branched at a distance of 35x50 cm, vigorous - 35x90 cm;
• cabbage - medium varieties according to the scheme 50x60 cm, and late 60x70 cm.
The planting hole is made of such a size that it is a couple of centimeters larger than the diameter of the seedling pot. Before transplanting, the hole must be thoroughly shed with water - at least 0.5 liters. In addition, fertilizers are also introduced here - a handful of wood ash mixed with 2 teaspoons. l. superphosphate. Moving to a new place of residence is carried out with an earthen lump, they try not to damage the roots.
When planting, cabbage and tomatoes are freed from cotyledon leaves and deepened to the first true leaf. Overgrown tomato seedlings can be saved if the planting is done at an angle, later the plant itself will raise the top.
The pepper is planted at the same level as it grew in the seedling container. Eggplant can be buried 1 cm lower. Cucumbers do not need to be buried. Like pepper, seedlings are planted at the same level, only after that the plants need to be slightly spud up - to a height of 1 cm.
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