2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38
Japanese buddleya (lat. Buddleja japonica) - ornamental shrub; a representative of the Buddleya genus of the Norichnikov family. Japan is considered the birthplace of the plant. In terms of decorative characteristics, it is inferior to other species of the genus Buddley, but it is distinguished by its rapid growth and winter hardiness.
Characteristics of culture
Japanese buddleya is a deciduous shrub up to 3 m high with tetrahedral spreading shoots. Leaves broadly lanceolate, opposite, coarse or finely toothed, pointed at the ends, narrowed at the base, up to 12 cm long, bare on the outside, grayish-tomentose on the back. The flowers are fragrant, lavender, collected in dense drooping panicles up to 20 cm long, formed at the ends of the shoots.
The fruit is a capsule, equipped with a non-falling perianth, and has an ovoid shape. Japanese buddleya blooms in May - June. It is used in group and single plantings, accepts sunny and sheltered places. The species was introduced into culture in 1866. In Russia, it is not very popular, despite the fact that it has high winter-hardy properties (unlike, for example, David's buddlea and ordinary buddlea - species widely used in ornamental gardening).
Like other representatives of the genus, Japanese buddleya attracts insects, including butterflies, by the scent of its inflorescences, which circle over the bushes throughout the summer, causing delight and charm among others. The culture prefers loose and nutritious soils, moderate moisture is also important. It is not recommended to plant buddleya in heavy soils, although with good drainage it is possible.
The subtleties of reproduction and cultivation
Unlike other ornamental shrubs, Japanese buddlea and its closest relatives are easily propagated by seeds, which are sown in greenhouses or seedling containers in late April - early May. Seedlings appear amicably, usually in 2-4 weeks. Also Japanese buddleya can be propagated by green and semi-lignified cuttings. Cutting of green cuttings is carried out after flowering, semi-lignified - in the fall. The latter are kept until spring in a cool room, for example, a basement or cellar. Both those and other cuttings take root very quickly, even without the use of growth stimulants.
Planting a Japanese buddleya sapling is carried out in spring or autumn. The first method is optimal. The planting hole is formed depending on the size of the earthen coma with roots. A standard 2-3-year-old seedling requires a pit 40 cm deep and 50 cm in diameter. Sand is poured onto the bottom with a layer of 10 cm, then a mixture of the top layer of earth and rotted manure or compost. It is also recommended to add superphosphate and wood ash to the mixture, these fertilizers will accelerate the survival of seedlings in a new place. After planting, irrigation is required, preferably mulching, this procedure will simplify care in terms of watering and weeding.
By the way, all representatives of the Buddleya genus are drought-resistant, this important advantage allows plants to be watered only during a prolonged drought. The culture has a negative attitude towards excessive watering, it will not tolerate stagnation of water at the foot. The rest of the Japanese buddleya is undemanding, in the middle lane it needs shelter for the winter. And it is not at all necessary to cut the shrubs down to the surface of the soil, they can be covered with peat or humus, and covered with spruce branches. With the onset of warmth, it is important to remove the shelter in time, otherwise the buddleya will begin to whine, which will negatively affect her health.
In many ways, the condition of the shrubs depends on the dressing, in fact, like flowering. During the season, it is necessary to carry out at least 2-4 fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers. In the spring buddleya needs to be fed with nitrogen fertilizers and organic matter, before flowering - with nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers. In the first half of summer, it is recommended to apply a solution of bird droppings, and at the end of summer - wood ash. The latter fertilizer speeds up the growth of the stems. By the way, it is better to remove withered panicles during flowering, they spoil the appearance of the bush. Pruning them allows you to get two new panicles in return, thereby prolonging the flowering period.
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