2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38
One of the amazing things about the violet is its ability to form and unfold flower petals for most of the calendar year. But often flower growers are faced with such a problem when, acquiring a strong flowering plant, the violet refuses to set new ones with the last wilted flower, and the leaves dry and begin to fall off. What needs to be done to return the violet to its former strength and beauty?
Unfavorable conditions that lead to disease
First of all, flowers begin to wither from various diseases that develop due to improper care. To understand which one struck your violet, you need to carefully examine the pot and identify the characteristic signs of disease.
It happens that over time, the leaves of the violet become smaller, the stem rises from the ground, and the leaves fall directly into the pot without any external influences, and from touch without effort remain in the hand of the grower.
If the leaves have dried out and darkened, and the petioles have become soft, watery, this is a sign of a fungal disease. It attacks the root system and gets to the stem very quickly. The plant begins to shed the lower leaves, which creates the appearance of a stem raised from the ground, and directs all its forces to the upper leaves as far from the focus of infection as possible.
Errors in the content of violets lead to this state. As a rule, this is excessive soil moisture, stagnation of water in the pot, and lack of drainage. This is especially dangerous in winter if the pots of flowers are on cool windowsills, and the moist earth sticks to the roots in a cold lump.
It is almost impossible to save such a plant in an old pot. It is necessary to remove the flower from the substrate and cut off the affected roots. The fact that they are not viable is also indicated by the fact that the roots did not braid with an earthen ball to the very walls of the pot. And this is an important condition for the violet to bloom.
You will also need to remove most of the lower foliage from the stem. The stem itself is also trimmed to healthy tissues - the cut should not have a brown tint, but should be close in tone to the foliage.
Rooting the rosette in water and nutrient substrate
The cleaned outlet is rooted in water. To do this, you need to make a crossbar for the vessel with a hole for the stem so that the violet touches the surface of the water only with a cut. Transplantation into a fresh substrate is carried out when young roots reach a length of about 2 cm.
It is not always convenient to monitor the water level in the bank. Therefore, you can use another method and root the violet directly in wet soil. Before this, the slices should dry out a little. After transplanting, the violet is not watered, but an arbitrary greenhouse is arranged for it from a cut-off transparent plastic bottle.
Among other things, violets are very sensitive to light, especially during this rooting period. You cannot leave them where the leaves brighten, this is how they burn out in the sun. Another signal of an excess of sunlight is that the plant forms short petioles. When the petioles are too long, this indicates a lack of lighting. The plant thus tries to reach for the sun, the leaves rise vertically and turn in one direction, towards the light source.
Dividing violets
It also happens that the plant looks healthy, develops large strong leaves, but flowering still does not occur. If you do not remove unnecessary stepchildren in time, several strong rosettes can settle in one pot, while they will grow on the same root.
What to do with these twins? They will have to be relocated to different pots. At the same time, it is not always possible to keep the roots of two copies. The part with the roots is immediately transplanted into a fresh substrate. And a young rosette without a root system is rooted in the usual way.
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