Greenhouse Preparation. Disease Prevention

2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38

Description of work on working with soil, cleaning frames, covering. On the means and methods for the control and prevention of diseases. Learn about all the details in this article

The specificity of the intensive operation of greenhouses and greenhouses has its own difficulties. There is no way to alternate vegetable crops as in open beds. The soil is depleted much faster. In a limited space, infections of the same type actively multiply and diseases progress. These factors reduce the yield and must be addressed with the use of strength and knowledge. All preliminary work is divided into three types:

• disinfection of soil and premises;

• disinfection of the frame, edging of ridges and passages;

• external surface treatment, cleaning of the area around the greenhouse.

Preparation of the external surface and around the greenhouse area

If you didn't manage to put things in order and prepare the greenhouse in the fall - get down to business in April, when the snow melts. Examine carefully all external sides, make sure there is no damage. If everything is in order with the surface, take a brush and "walk" over all joints and crevices. Not only dust is collected here, but plant particles carried in by the wind during leaf fall often get stuck. This is a fertile environment for wintering pests and a bunch of infections.

After mechanical cleaning, the entire outer surface is washed, if there is no coating, then the frame is completely processed. Any detergent can be used, including dishwashing liquid. Now we need disinfection with copper sulfate (100-200 g per 10-liter container). Many people prefer to use bleach. To obtain a solution, you need to dilute 2 glasses of powder in a bucket. After finishing the surface treatment, wash all greenhouse tools (pruning shears, knives, rakes, scissors, shovels) in the remaining solution.

We free the area around the building from weeds. If moles enter the garden, there are mole rats, bears - make a defense. Dig in old slate, plastics, and resin-treated plywood around the perimeter of the greenhouse. Deepening is required at least 50 cm. This is important if raspberries, blackberries and other plants grow nearby, giving strong root shoots.

Interior work in the greenhouse

We remove the remaining tops, used twine, props, pegs, etc. We check the integrity of the joints, the operation of the mechanisms of vents, doors, transoms. If after the winter cracks have formed, coat with a sealant, putty. Lay large gaps with foam rubber, glue with tape.

We proceed to washing the inner surface, pay special attention to abutments, joints, cracks, here is a breeding ground for infections. Now disinfection. We wash wooden racks, trim in beds and other items with copper sulfate. Blackened wood elements are first moistened with a solution of bleach or whiteness and then vitriol. It is advisable to whitewash the entire wooden frame after drying with slaked lime.

Galvanized metal structures are washed with vinegar (9%). Rust is sanded with a metal brush, degreased with a solvent, primed, painted. The final stage of actions with metal is the use of Bordeaux liquid with milk of lime.

Now you need to disinfect the entire room from infections, fungi, spider mites, etc. The ideal method is fumigation with sulfur bombs (Climate, Fas, Peshka, Volcano). In the attached instructions there is a calculation by square meters, so buy the right amount based on your parameters. For maximum effect, it is recommended to wet the inner surface before such an operation. Checkers are installed on non-combustible supports (slate pieces, metal trimmings). After setting fire, the doors close tightly. Better not to enter for three days, then ventilate.

How to disinfect soil in a greenhouse

If it is not possible to replace the top layer, use other methods. For enrichment, pour ash, superphosphate (an incomplete handful per square meter) on the beds and dig up. It is desirable to combine all three methods listed below.

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Thermal or solarization. The bed is spilled with boiling water, covered with an opaque film, fixed around the perimeter with a load, kept for a day, then dug up. You can use a generator with a temperature of 700 degrees.

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Chemical … Watering with manganese solution, iron vitriol, dusting with bleach. For severe infection, apply 2.5% formalin solution. It is applied with a spray bottle (half a glass per 1 m2).

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Biological. Sowing of green manure (acceptable for autumn work), enrichment with biological products: phytosporin, trichodermin, pentafog, nitrogen phytophyte, stubble biodestructor, phytocide. All means are effective for the destruction of pathogens, from powdery mildew, homoz, black leg, macrosporiosis, brown rye, fusarium. They stimulate growth, soften the effect of pesticides, promote the absorption of potassium, phosphorus, trace elements, and neutralize heavy metals.

From phytophthora, it is required to apply a complex effect. The soil is flooded with boiling water, as described above. The next day - 10% solution of copper sulfate. In case of severe infection, you should additionally apply 40% formalin solution, then sprinkle with lime powder (glass per square meter) or water (400 g per bucket, consumption 3 liters per square meter). Then digging onto the bayonet of the shovel. The prophylaxis ends with the treatment with the solution of fiosporin.