2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38
Rose Rust is an incredibly contagious attack that spreads at lightning speed and greatly weakens luxurious rose bushes. The roses attacked by it stop blooming and shed most of the leaves. Bringing rust into the garden will not be difficult, but getting rid of it will be extremely difficult. Often it is this unfortunate ailment that causes the rapid death of roses. It is much easier to prevent it from occurring than to try to get rid of it later
A few words about the disease
It is not difficult to recognize rust on roses: heaps of spores of bright orange-yellow tones begin to appear on the wood. Similar piles of spores, only slightly smaller in size, appear on the leaves from the lower sides. And on the upper parts of the leaves, yellowish-reddish specks gradually appear, after a while, covering the leaves entirely.
Infected areas of the bark crack, shoots thicken, bend and subsequently dry out.
The causative agent of rose rust is the pathogenic fungus Phragmidium subcorticium. Rust is especially dangerous for repair roses and centifolia, as well as for a number of rose hips. To a large extent, its development is facilitated by the sultry weather that retards the growth of plants, accompanied by a prolonged drought. In principle, a rainy summer also promotes the development of rust.
How to fight
Infected rose leaves must be systematically collected and burned, and shoots attacked by rust must be cut off slightly below the lesions. Too badly affected pink bushes, no matter how sorry they are, should be dug up and quickly burned, after pouring kerosene.
It is advisable, if possible, to avoid mono-planting of roses, planting nice and useful neighbors to them - yarrow, wormwood, monarda, marigolds and even garlic. All of these representatives of the green world are famous for their disinfecting and immuno-strengthening properties. Also, when planting roses, excessive thickening should be avoided.
When watering roses, it is important to ensure that the water does not fall on the leaves. In cases of spraying with stimulating and herbal solutions and infusions, this recommendation does not apply.
It is recommended to periodically feed growing roses, and top dressing can be both root and foliar. Nettle infusion is perfect for these purposes. To prepare it, the plastic bucket must be hammered to the very top with freshly picked nettles. And so that the resulting infusion does not have to be filtered later, you can put the nettle in unnecessary old nylon tights. After that, the nettle is poured with cold water and allowed to brew for ten days or more (as a rule, until fermentation ends). From time to time, the composition should be mixed, but you should not close it with a lid. By the way, if you place the infusion in a warm place, it will ferment there much faster. For root dressings, the ready-made infusion is diluted in a ratio of 1:10, and for foliar dressings - 1:20.
As soon as the first signs of rust are noticed, it is recommended to treat the roses with either Bordeaux liquid or other preparations containing copper. It can be such means as "Ordan", "Hom", "Oksikhom" or "Abiga-peak". Such preparations as "Strobi" and "Topaz" have proven themselves well in the fight against rust. In this case, sprayers are best taken with fine dispersion injection. The finer the droplets of the solution are during treatment, the more sticky and thinner the leaf coating will be. And the preparations in this case will be consumed in much smaller volumes, which is extremely important when using sulfur and copper-containing fungicides - much less heavy salts will get into the soil.
A good folk remedy for combating rose rust is an infusion of wormwood: 400 g of fresh grass should be placed in a wooden bowl, filled with ten liters of cold water and infused for two weeks. Next, the composition is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. In order not to have to dilute the infusion, you can insist it for one to three days. It also works very well against caterpillars and aphids.
With the onset of autumn, before covering the roses, all the foliage should be removed, and the roses should be treated with Bordeaux liquid or three percent copper sulfate.
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