Learning To Vaccinate Correctly

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Video: Learning To Vaccinate Correctly

Video: Learning To Vaccinate Correctly
Video: Clinical Skills: Administering Vaccinations 2024, May
Learning To Vaccinate Correctly
Learning To Vaccinate Correctly
Anonim
Learning to vaccinate correctly
Learning to vaccinate correctly

There are many ways of grafting with cuttings, more than 150. All of them provide for the observance of the conditions, which I will discuss below

In order to vaccinate correctly, you need to observe some mandatory points:

1. The cambium (green layer under the bark) should match the cambium of the branch on which the graft is being made at the cutting.

2. The grafting knife must be perfectly sharp (sharper than a razor), the process is clean and fast when performing the grafting.

3. Directly for grafting, only high-quality cuttings are used: they should not be frost-bitten or dried out; it is better to cut them from the middle part of the moderate (35-40 cm) growth.

Which method of grafting to choose depends on the time of year, the thickness and characteristics of the rootstock and scion, the skills of the graftsman and other reasons. As a rule, the “lateral incision” method is more quickly and easily learned (and for nurseries - a similar “lateral without thorn” method).

Directly about the vaccination process

Annual shoots from trees of proven varieties must be cut into cuttings. This is done in late autumn, before the onset of severe frosts. They are stored in a basement in wet sand or under snow, covered with sawdust until spring, and before grafting, they are brought into a warm room for several days. Sometimes, if there were no severe frosts in the winter, you can cut them in the spring, but you shouldn't really hope for luck in this case, so it's better to place them in a warm room.

The best time for grafting is the beginning of spring sap flow, when the bark easily separates from the wood. But the method described here can be applied both earlier and later than this moment, and this is another of its advantages, since it is not easy for inexperienced gardeners to determine if there is a sap flow.

When the time for grafting comes, the harvested shoots are divided into segments with two buds - cuttings. It is better to take them from the middle part.

Under the lower kidney, slightly stepping back from it, two oblique cuts are made, as if sharpening the stalk with a wedge. Their length should be three times the thickness of the cutting. The sections are brought closer to one side so that they merge, and on the opposite side, where the kidney is, there remains, as it were, a "butt" of the bark. If in this place you cut the stalk across, then you will get a wedge in the section. Because of this, the lower end is not straight, but beveled at an angle of approximately 45 °. Above the upper bud, the cutting is cut almost straight, making a slight bevel.

A well-positioned branch is chosen on the tree (for grafting by the "lateral cut" method, it can be of any thickness). From above, in a place convenient for grafting (in the middle of the branch or closer to the base), an incision is made in the bark and wood at an angle of 15-20 ° to the surface. The knife is held in such a way that the bottom of the cut forms an angle of 45 ° - the same as at the end of the cutting. The length of the cut should correspond to the length of the slices on the handle, and the depth depends on the thickness of the branch chosen. To make it easier to cut wood, slightly bend the branch down. The stalk should be inserted closer to the long side of the incision so that the cambium “butt” and the branches coincide (the bark may not coincide). The oblique end will stick to the bottom of the incision.

If everything is done correctly, then the handle holds itself, without strapping. But it still needs to be tied with plastic tape, tightly overlapping the turns one on top of the other. The strapping starts from the bottom; reaching the bud of the cutting, pass the tape between the cutting and the branch, then impose a few more turns below the bud and tie the end with a loop. When using a synthetic film, the vaccination site does not need to be coated; only the upper cut of the cutting is coated.

The vaccine is ready. It remains to add that success depends to a large extent on the confidence with which you will make the cuts. They should come out right away, without "whipping". And for this, be sure to practice a day or two on willow branches. Experienced gardeners can re-graft the entire crown at once, completely replacing the variety. Beginners do not need to take risks: graft one or two branches first. Immediately after this operation, it is necessary to cut off the entire branch above the graft, leaving only a small thorn (stump) 8-10 centimeters long. A growing shoot can be tied to it to give it the right direction. When shoots begin to develop from the buds of the cuttings, leave the best one, and remove the second.

If the tape, which is tied around the graft site, is not elastic enough and, when the branches thicken, begin to cut into the bark, immediately loosen it. You can remove the harness when the cutting is completely engrafted and the wounds are healed. If the vaccination fails, it can be repeated in the same season, stepping back down the branch.

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