2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38
It's October, the harvest from the trees has already been practically harvested, the leaves are beginning to slowly fall off (and have already fallen in the northern regions of the country). It would seem that you can calm down and leave your garden alone until spring. But in reality this is not so, now the main work will begin on preparing the trees for the next harvest. What do we do first? First you need to go around your garden and inspect all the trees for the following damage: dry and …
It's October, the harvest from the trees has already been practically harvested, the leaves are beginning to slowly fall off (and have already fallen in the northern regions of the country). It would seem that you can calm down and leave your garden alone until spring. But in reality this is not so, now the main work will begin on preparing the trees for the next harvest.
What do we do first?
First, you need to go around your garden and inspect all trees for the following damage: dry and broken branches, a splitting trunk, damage to the tree bark. Also, take a close look at the area near the trees to determine if there are any overgrowth. Next, we examine the bark of trees for the presence of tinder fungi. After the inspection, we prepare the tools. We will start with sanitary pruning of trees, these are the names of the operation that is carried out in September, while it is not very cold yet.
What is sanitary tree pruning for?
The purpose of sanitary pruning of trees is to remove tops and shoots (overgrown shoots), to form a beautiful, evenly ventilated and transparent crown, to remove dry and diseased, as well as intertwined and broken branches. Also, during sanitary pruning, shoots growing vertically up next to the trunk are removed, since over time they thicken and become almost a "second trunk".
What tools are needed for sanitary tree pruning?
You don't need a lot of tools for sanitary pruning. Here's what we stock up on:
1. Regular pruning shears, it will be needed to remove the thinnest branches and young growth.
2. Pruning shears for trees with long handles. They will be able to cut thicker branches. In addition, thanks to the long handles, with the help of scissors, we will be able to get to remote, hard-to-reach branches. In principle, if it is convenient for you to work with garden shears, then you can get by with one tool, but often the branches that need to be removed are located in places where you need just a small compact tool.
3. A small file with a short blade and a comfortable handle for cutting medium-sized branches.
4. If, after inspection, you find splitting branches, then metal staples are also useful to hold them together.
How do we trim?
We start pruning by removing the shoots and top shoots. Top shoots, or simply tops, are shoots that grow on the trunk, forming a small cluster of small branches. Top shoots are removed with the capture of the "mother" bark. This is done in order to cut out dormant buds in order to avoid the appearance of new processes.
Now we start to remove the overgrowth. We try not only to cut the shoots with pruning shears, but also to capture part of the root shoot in order to avoid re-germination.
After we have completed the removal of tops and overgrowths, we proceed to pruning dry and diseased branches. We carefully remove, trying not to make large wounds on the trunk, this can lead to the "frostbite" of the tree in winter, since a large wound will not have time to "heal" before the cold weather. After pruning diseased branches, be sure to treat the tools with alcohol for decontamination. Now we proceed to the removal of vertical branches or branches growing up parallel to the trunk, so that a “second trunk” does not grow.
And last of all, if necessary, we thin out the branches for better ventilation and light transmission, forming a beautiful crown of the tree.
Removing tinder fungi
We have coped with the pruning of trees, now we are proceeding with the removal of tinder fungi, if any. Carefully, using a knife, remove unnecessary growths from the trunk. It is imperative that if the wound is deep, we treat it with copper sulfate.
Attention! It is not allowed to paint over wounds with paint (with the exception of mineral paint), as this leads to rotting of the tree.
Pinning the split branches
If there are severely split branches on the trees, use metal staples to carefully hold them together, being careful not to damage the tree.
That's it, the initial preparation of trees for winter is complete.
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