Violet From The Cutting: Breeding Rules

2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38

The violet can be propagated in many ways. One of the simplest and fastest is the separation and rooting of a leaf cutting. However, it is this method that causes many complaints, because at the stage of rooting, the stalk often rots and causes disappointment for indoor floriculture lovers. What you need to know to avoid such a result, and reproduction pleased with the rapid development of the bush, as well as the multiple flowering of this exquisite and delicate plant?

How to collect planting material?

There is a belief that if you secretly break off a twig or leaf of a plant you like from another grower, then it will take root better. And from such an attitude to the plant, injuries very often occur, which, on the contrary, only prevent the cuttings from taking root. For example, tearing off or plucking off a violet leaf in a hurry with your fingers, tissues inevitably wrinkle on delicate cuttings. These damages soon lead to decay of the planting material. Therefore, it is still better to politely ask familiar flower growers to cut off the leaf with a sharp knife or a brand new blade.

What to do if, contrary to the request, an inexperienced amateur florist still breaks off the stem from the outlet? Such planting material can still be saved if you refresh its cut on intact tissues with a sharp blade. Why is it important? The fact is that the roots and the rosette begin to form on the cut and therefore, starting reproduction from damage in this particular place will be the beginning of the death of the flower.

Rooting of violet cuttings

The stalk can be left for rooting in a glass of water or it can be immediately planted in the ground. It is desirable that the water only comes into contact with the cut, and the petiole does not sink into the liquid and does not get wet. Therefore, for such purposes, you need to select a vessel into which the leaf will not fall. You can also use a plastic bottle to support the leaf cutting. They cut off the bottom of it, make a hole in it with a diameter slightly wider than the petiole and cover the glass with it. Then, through this hole, the petiole is lowered into the water, and the leaf remains supported by the bottom. So the water will evaporate from the glass more slowly.

If the choice fell on planting the cutting directly into the ground, the cut should be allowed to dry a little - 30-60 minutes. In this case, one should also not forget about the peculiarities of forming a rosette from a cut. It requires a shallow planting of the cuttings - approximately to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. After planting, watering is carried out.

As for the choice of a pot, for rooting it should not be large so that the root system can quickly master the earthy ball. So the plant is more likely to start growing, and the soil will not sour, creating favorable conditions for the development of pathogens. Later, it is better to transplant the grown violets into a container that is more suitable in size.

Rooted cuttings care

After correct planting of healthy cuttings, there is still a risk of cuttings rotting. And waterlogging of the soil can easily lead to this. Therefore, you shouldn't water the cutting too often. A transparent plastic bottle will again help to create optimal conditions - this time its upper part without a bottom. With this cap, you need to cover the stalk planted for rooting. As long as the soil is moist enough, condensation will appear on the walls. And watering is carried out when the soil dries out.

When new leaves from the newly formed outlet appear on the surface of the soil, the plant must be gradually accustomed to the microclimate of room conditions. To do this, unscrew the cap from the bottle. Thus, ventilation is carried out, and yet the flowers remain in semi-greenhouse conditions, without experiencing a sharp change in the microclimate. Additionally, several more holes can be made in the bottle.