Common Questions About Clematis

2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38

Do you want to have a beautiful clematis bush? I offer information for beginners: when is it better to plant, how to prune, care, replant, what to do if the bush does not bloom

When is the best time to plant clematis

Seedlings with a closed root system can be planted at any warm time. With open roots - in spring, before the buds swell / open. If desired, the planting procedure is done in the fall, 3 weeks before the onset of frost (September-early October). To accelerate survival, the seedling is always watered and shaded.

When to transplant clematis

An adult plant has a well-developed root system, powerful shoots, this fact causes certain difficulties when transplanting to another place. It is important to preserve the roots and the aerial part. The plant is dug up with a large lump, while the shovel is completely buried. In this form, the plant is transferred to a new place, planted in a prepared hole.

If the transplant is carried out for the purpose of reproduction, the earth is gently shaken off the roots, the bush is divided into parts (the rhizome is cut). Each division should have 4-6 branches. The best time to transplant an adult clematis is spring. The time is chosen before the beginning of the growing season (late April-early May). The second acceptable option is late summer (August, early September).

How to care

Clematis do not tolerate clayey, acidified soils and waterlogging. They bloom well in sunny areas, but do not like overheating of the roots. Maintenance consists of monthly trimming, loosening, weeding and watering. Mulching is recommended under the bush to curb the growth of weeds, retain moisture and create a stable temperature in the ground.

During the period of prolonged rains, to prevent the development of fungal infections, dusting of the lower shoots with ash is done. To protect against nematodes, it is recommended to plant calendula next to the bush. A must for the cultivation of clematis is the organization of supports and pruning.

When to prune clematis

Regardless of the type and variety, in the first year clematis is cut in the fall: completely - to the first bud. Such a cardinal operation stimulates the growth of basal buds, which, after wintering, will give powerful shoots. From the second year onwards, pruning corresponds to the varietal characteristics and is done in different ways.

What to do if the vine does not bloom

If fertilizers (superphosphate + potassium) are applied under the bush in the fall, in regions with cold winters, measures are taken to create comfortable conditions for wintering and clematis does not bloom, then there are reasons, I will name the main ones.

1. The root collar is bare, shallow planting. Add soil under the bush.

2. High acidity. Test the soil for an alkaline reaction, at high rates, spill with a chalk solution (10 l + 1 tbsp. L. Chalk).

3. Near ground water, damp earth - drainage required.

4. Root overheating - plant ground cover plants under the bush or mulch.

5. Sun deficiency - must be transplanted to a well-lit place.

6. Incorrect pruning. If buds are formed on last year's shoots, they need to be preserved.

7. Soil pests that damage the roots.

What to do support for clematis

The design can be any: arch, cylinder, pyramid, fan, trellis, etc. It is important what the support will be made of. The metal is durable, but it gets hot and can cause overheating / burns to the stems.

For clematis in the form of guides, it is recommended to use wood, willow twigs, and reeds. The thickness of the rod / lath should not be thick, since the petioles of the vines are capable of embracing a diameter of no more than 1-1.5 cm. The height of the structure is 1.5-3 m.

How to propagate clematis

Small-flowered species can be propagated by seeds. For breeding varieties and large flowers, this method is not suitable - such species do not transfer their original characteristics to ripe fruits. For varietal clematis, cuttings are used, dividing the bush.

Layers are considered the most effective way. This method allows you not to injure the mother plant, to get strong seedlings as soon as possible and in the future, the rapid flowering of a young bush. The seedling appears from a buried branch of a vine, manipulations take place in spring / early summer.

The depth of the groove for deepening is 5-7 cm. A strong shoot is used for reproduction. Burying is done on any number of nodes, if desired, the entire shoot is used. In any case, the top of the branch and leaves above each node are left on the surface. The shoot is fixed with hairpins, staples or in another convenient way. For rooting, layering all summer need to be watered and fed 2-3 times with growth simulators and micronutrient fertilizers.