Hardening Of Seedlings

2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38

Hardened seedlings tolerate transplanting better, reacts less to temperature changes and yields faster

Why hardening is necessary

In many regions, the seedling method is used for vegetables, this is due to the climate. The favorable period for maturation in the open field for development is small, and so that the summer is enough, artificial conditions are created with optimal temperatures.

Before planting in the ground, we keep the seedlings in the apartment. The temperature in the house is very different from the outside temperature (+ 20 … + 30), and when the seedling enters the natural environment, a shock ensues. The plant suffers from air humidity, low night temperatures. Most of all, the root system reacts to these factors and for a while it ceases to function - to feed the plant. As a result, metabolic processes and growth stop.

Tempering helps to avoid such a negative. You gradually accustom the plants to the new environment and conditions. The basic principle of hardening is the gradual preparation for a "new life".

Seedling hardening rules

Hardening must be carried out throughout the entire growing period indoors. This applies to all crops: tomatoes, cabbage, watermelons, zucchini, melons, cucumbers, etc. The main goal is to bring them closer to open field conditions. The process begins a week after germination and consists of two components.

Temperature regime

High temperatures are known to make the plant friable and promote stretching. This phenomenon can be avoided. If the room is +25, then arrange ventilation, lowering it to +16, and at night to +12. It is difficult to create ideal conditions in a living room, but this must be strived for. To open transoms, vents, balcony doors, for the entry of cold air, we start from 5 minutes, bringing up to 15 minutes during the week. There should be no drafts.

Two weeks after germination, maintaining a given heat range, you need to prepare for real hardening. To do this, open the windows for an hour, gradually increasing the ventilation up to 4 hours.

Solar mode

Young shoots are protected from the sun in the first week. Direct rays are dangerous for delicate foliage. Starting from the second week, they begin to leave in the sun. For the first day, 15 minutes is enough. Choose the time in the morning / evening, excluding lunch hours from 11 to 14. From three weeks of age, you can not shade and leave in the sun all day.

Preplant hardening

Having decided on the date of disembarkation, you need to carry out a pre-planting active hardening procedure 1-2 weeks before the selected date. Keep the seedlings cool at night. For thermophilic species (tomatoes, pumpkin seeds, peppers, eggplant), + 12 … + 14 is optimal. For cold-resistant (head lettuce, cabbage, basil) + 6… + 8.

It is not difficult to reduce the temperature in urban environments. To do this, the boxes are taken out onto a glazed balcony / loggia and kept there around the clock. The window can be kept open during the day, but it is better to close it at night. If your seedlings are in a greenhouse, then the transoms / doors are only opened during the day. This is how the aboveground part is tempered.

It is not recommended to increase the period of active hardening by more than 2 weeks, as this leads to inhibition of growth, which subsequently negatively affects the yield.

Preplant hardening of the root system

The root system also needs preparation. At the same time as the temperature drops, watering should be reduced. The water rate does not change, but the intervals are shortened. Rare watering allows the soil to dry out. It is necessary to strive to ensure that the upper part of the earth and almost the entire lump is completely dry. The part in the middle of the container, where the roots are located, should remain moist.

This technique will slow down growth, make the seedlings stocky and give an impetus to the development of the root system. The procedure is also useful for the structure of the leaves, for example, in cabbage, the leaf acquires a waxy coating, and in tomatoes it becomes dark green. It is important not to overdo it with limiting watering, otherwise leaf fall and reduced vitality may occur. The seedlings will always show the need for water by their appearance. The drooping tops are a signal for urgent watering, during which the clod of earth must be completely saturated.

It is recommended to feed the plants a couple of days before planting. This point can be omitted if you fed after a dive. Usually they use urea, nitrophos or other preparations containing phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium (Kristallon, Kemira). Top dressing will give strength, reduce the survival time, and increase immunity.

A properly seasoned seedling will easily tolerate the stress of transplanting and will thrive and yield more yields.