Growing Daffodils

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Video: Growing Daffodils

Video: Growing Daffodils
Video: How to Plant Daffodils in Fall 2024, April
Growing Daffodils
Growing Daffodils
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Growing daffodils
Growing daffodils

The unpretentiousness and frost resistance of daffodils does not negate some of the features that the gardener should know in order to grow strong, beautiful, fragrant and resistant plants to diseases and pests

Landing points

Like most early flowers, the daffodil loves sunny places, open to light, but tolerates partial shade. In the dense shade, the bulbs become small and refuse to please people with their flowers.

Daffodils do not tolerate areas with high groundwater levels, swampy or stagnant spring waters. This is due to the fact that daffodils gain strength under a thick blanket of snow in a relatively warm winter. Their tender green shoots appear on the surface, as soon as the snow melts from the surface of the earth. Night frosts in spring, which cause ice to form on the soil, can damage both the leaves and buds of the daffodil.

Soil requirements

For daffodils, a more important role for their growth and prosperous development is played not so much by the fertility of the soil as by its structure. Although the fertility of the soil is taken for granted. It is especially important that the soil is rich in potassium.

As for the structure of the soil, it should be good for air and water, that is, it should be loose and not capable of stagnant water formation.

Landing dates

Compared to hyacinths and tulips, daffodils take longer to take root in the soil. To do this, they need one, or even a month and a half. Therefore, the best period for planting bulbs in the ground is from mid-August to mid-September. If you are late, then the planted bulbs need to be covered.

Planting depth

The planting depth of the bulbs depends on the type of soil. On heavy soils, the depth is slightly less than on light ones, and is 10-12 centimeters, versus 12-15 centimeters on light ones.

The distance between the bulbs depends on the purpose of the planting. When growing the bulbs, that is, for 2-3 years, the rows are placed 20-25 centimeters from one another, leaving a gap of 10-12 centimeters between the bulbs.

When planting for a longer period, the distance between the rows is increased to 30 centimeters, and the gap between the bulbs is increased to 25 centimeters.

To maintain the soil in a "sweaty" state, which will reduce the amount of loosening and make weeding less laborious, it is advisable to mulch the plantings by 5-8 centimeters with weathered peat.

Planting care

Daffodil planting care consists of a traditional plant care kit:

• loosening the soil;

• weeding of weeds;

• fertilizing with fertilizers;

• fight against diseases and pests.

Three dressings during the growing season

1. During the period of regrowth, that is, at the end of the snow melt, complete mineral fertilizer is applied dry into the furrows between the rows, covering it with soil.

2. During the budding period. The best fertilizer will be a mullein solution (1:30) with the addition of superphosphate and potassium fertilizers at the rate of 15 grams per bucket of solution.

3. During the flowering period. Make the same solution as in the second feeding, only the amount of superphosphate is increased to 30 grams.

It is important not to overdo it with nitrogen when feeding, so as not to provoke fungal diseases.

Disease and pest control

Like any beauty, the narcissist has many enemies.

Among the pests, the most annoying are:

Great daffodil fly, gladiolus and greenhouse thrips, hoverflies, kivsaki (millipedes), onion root mite, greenhouse aphid, common bear, stem nematode, clickers.

Daffodil-clinging diseases:

Smut; powdery and downy mildew; root, sclerocial and gray rot; spotting; fusarium.

Control measures:

• Timely culling of diseased plants and bulbs.

• Compliance with crop rotation, returning to its original place no earlier than after 6 years.

• Etching of bulbs before planting with foundation or topsine-M, rogor or metaphos.

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