The Dazzling Beauty Of Climbing Roses. The Basics

2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38

In recent years, the passion for roses has reached a peak in popularity. Beautiful, delicate creatures with a pleasant smell, amaze gardeners to the very heart. This love only grows stronger over the years. Among other species, climbing roses acquire special value due to powerful vertical growth, splendor of flowering

Types of climbing group

By origin, external indicators of plants, climbing forms are conventionally divided into 3 categories:

1. Curly (real climbing) Rambler. They are distinguished by flexible, long (1, 5-4, 5 m) arched or creeping bright green branches with curved thin spines. Inflorescences are collected in a raceme, small no more than 2, 5 cm, faint-hearted, double, simple or semi-double type of different shades. They are distributed evenly throughout the stem. Bloom profusely in early summer for 1-1.5 months. Small sheet of shiny rigid structure. Winter hardiness is high.

2. Climbing (Climber). Hybrids obtained from multiple crossing of curly forms with bush. The lashes are up to 4 meters long, powerful, with high growth potential. The buds are large from 4 centimeters or more, forming loose inflorescences. Outwardly, they look like tall hybrid tea specimens. Some cultivars bloom twice during the summer. They are relatively resistant to powdery mildew; they winter satisfactorily under a light, dry shelter in Central Russia.

3. Climbing. Sports (kidney mutations) from bush options. They differ from their parents by powerful growth, late flowering. The diameter of the blossoming single buds is 4-11 cm. Sometimes they form loose clusters at the ends of the shoots. Low winter hardiness. Suitable for cultivation in the southern regions.

Most gardeners in the Middle Lane cultivate the first 2 types of climbing specimens.

Landing features

Optimal placement option: a ventilated sunny place of the southwestern or southern exposure near the walls of buildings, supports. Adequate lighting contributes to good ripening of young shoots, the laying of flower buds for the next year.

Pits 50 by 50 cm in size are dug under the bushes, the same depth. They move away from the support by 30-40 cm. Fill with a mixture of rotted manure, compost with the addition of sand. Water wells abundantly. Planted obliquely, the roots are placed away from the wall.

In the first year, the seedling is cut at a level of 15-20 cm from the soil surface. This technique contributes to better rooting, laying a larger number of buds. When the lashes grow back, they are neatly tied to the base.

Care

The bushes are rarely watered, but abundantly. They are fed in early spring with a complex fertilizer nitroammofosk (a tablespoon per bucket) or Kemira lux, during flowering with phosphorus-potassium components. In total, 3-4 additional fertilizing is provided to roses per season. In the second half of summer, nitrogen elements are excluded for better ripening of the shoots.

Trunk circles are mulched with humus, sawdust, cut grass, straw cutting to retain moisture. Weeds are weeded regularly, eliminating competitors.

In early spring, diseased, dried lashes are removed to healthy tissue. Thick sections are covered with garden var. During the second year of life, bushes are formed, creating lush forms of evenly spaced branches of 2-3 orders of magnitude. Falling buds are pruned to maintain an attractive decorative appearance.

In subsequent years, exclusively sanitary measures are carried out. Prune the blackened, frozen ends onto a strong bud from the outside. After leaving wintering, for the first time, the whips are spread along the ground, giving the opportunity to form replacement increments at the base of the bush. After their growth to 0.5-0.7 m, the old branches are tied to the support.

We will consider reproduction, wintering of climbing species in the next article.