2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38
Wool, along with cotton, is one of the most popular natural materials used in textiles. However, not everything that is of natural origin is safe for the environment and for humans. What is the advantage of ecological wool?
Wool is usually associated with high quality, warmth and a pleasant feel. Undoubtedly, it has a natural origin, but this, as a rule, ends with its naturalness. Most often, animal breeding, collection of raw materials and their processing, as well as the finished products themselves, are far from environmental standards. Why is this happening?
Conditions for the production of ecological wool
Wool is a natural material obtained by shearing or combing the fur of sheep, llamas, camels, goats and rabbits. The first aspect that is important for the ecological production of animal hair is that animals, as a source of ecological wool, must be grown in accordance with the rules of organic farming.
This implies the presence of appropriate living conditions, grazing on pastures free from pesticides, chemical fertilizers and harmful agents used to treat plants. Feeding, treatment and protection of animals from parasites should be carried out in an appropriate manner.
The most environmentally friendly sheep are raised in America, Australia and New Zealand, as well as in Europe - in particular, in Scotland. However, an animal rights organization argues that many sheep breeders do not comply with them and that temporary shearing of animals is harmful to them.
Conventional and organic wool production
Most of the wool is produced in the usual way, only a small percentage of this raw material is environmentally friendly. However, actions are being taken to improve this situation. After clipping or brushing, the coat must be washed. In the production of organic wool, cleaning agents that are safe for the environment must be used, since they enter the sewage system and groundwater together with the water.
This is followed by the processes of combing the wool and its dyeing. At this stage, the use of chemicals that are harmful to both the environment and human health (for example, causing allergies) is also unacceptable in the production of organic products. Contrary to popular belief, natural dyes are not always safe for nature, since, for example, chromium salts are used to fix a color that should not fade during washing of the product, which, after entering the wastewater, pose a threat to fish and microorganisms living in the water. Therefore, for dyeing wool, as a rule, safer and more durable synthetic dyes should be used.
At the final stage of production, wool is treated with resins and chemicals. Since the use of resins in the production of organic wool is prohibited, various enzymes are used instead, with the exception of genetically modified ones. An important aspect in the production of organic wool is its social side - the creation of proper working conditions and wages of workers.
Labels and environmental certifications for wool
For wool, there is still no mark or environmental certificate that will fully confirm the organic nature of this popular raw material. However, there are marks and certificates that relate to the production of wool.
For example, in the United States there are standards for organic wool, defined by the OTA (English abbreviation: Organic Trade Association). But they only concern the breeding of animals and do not take into account the further stages of wool production. They list the general conditions that the production of organic textiles must meet.
Speaking about the standardization of the production of ecological wool, one cannot ignore the fact that some types of wool (for example, cashmere) are produced by nomadic peoples, for whom it is difficult and often impossible to comply with the norms of any standardization.
In Russia, the Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation is only planning to create a laboratory for certification of wool, based on international standards (in particular, the most famous quality mark - Woolmark). Work on the construction of the laboratory will begin at the end of 2017. Certification is planned to be carried out in three main areas: the proportion of vegetable impurities, the thickness and the percentage of wool sent to production and remaining from the total volume obtained after shearing the animal. After 2021, the Ministry of Agriculture of the Russian Federation is going to introduce compulsory certification of wool.
Why buy ecological wool?
The production of organic wool is more expensive than conventional wool because compliance with environmental standards, certification and control increases its cost. However, in exchange for a higher price, you can get a truly safe product, manufactured in compliance with environmental standards. This is beneficial for both human health and the environment in general.
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