Planting Berry Crops. Part 2

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Video: Planting Berry Crops. Part 2

Video: Planting Berry Crops. Part 2
Video: Blueberry Economics 2024, April
Planting Berry Crops. Part 2
Planting Berry Crops. Part 2
Anonim
Planting berry crops. Part 2
Planting berry crops. Part 2

When preparing the soil for planting berries, very good results are obtained by mixing fertilizers with all soil layers to a depth of 35-40 cm, without turning the layer. This is achieved by plowing with a conventional or plantation plow with the mouldboards removed. For the gradual cultivation of deep soil layers, it is necessary to deepen the arable layer in 2-3 years with each plowing by 4-5 cm

If the soil layer is cultivated to a depth of at least 40 cm, berry bushes can be planted in shallow furrows. With a shallow arable layer, planting pits for currants and gooseberries should be at least 40x40x40 cm, and for raspberries - 30x30x30 cm. On the bottom of the pit, you first need to dump most of the excavated top cultivated soil layer, then organic and mineral fertilizers, on one pit: manure or compost - 6-10 kg, phosphorus - 200 g, potash - 40 g, mix them with the soil and cover with a thin layer of earth on top. This preparation is best done in autumn and no later than a month before planting.

Berry plants are early-growing and early ripening, start growing early in spring, so the best time for planting them is autumn, not spring.

In temperate climates, currants, gooseberries and raspberries are best planted in the first half of October. And on damp cold soils in years when the top layer is excessively waterlogged in autumn, it is better to plant early spring (especially raspberries and gooseberries) at the first readiness of the soil. Strawberries, if seedlings are available, can be planted from mid-August to mid-September and from late April to mid-May, but the best dates are from 25 August to 10 September. In the northern regions of strawberry cultivation, autumn planting should be completed before September 10.

Currants can be planted with one-year or two-year seedlings that meet the standard, gooseberries - two-year-olds, raspberries - strong one-year offspring. Strawberry seedlings should be 3-5 cm long with a well-developed root system and 2-3 well-developed leaves.

When transporting seedlings, it is necessary to monitor the quality of the packing of the roots, since on a warm, sunny and windy day, active roots can quickly die. The planting material delivered to the site must be dug in the shade into a shallow wet groove before planting (preferably near the planting site). If, when leaving the nursery, the roots of the seedlings were not dipped in a clay mash, this should be done on the farm. When planting, seedlings from the digging hole must be removed in small batches.

Planting schemes for currants and gooseberries - 2, 5x1, 5 m or 3x1, 25 m (2x1, 25 m in individual plots), raspberries - 2, 0x0, 75 or 2, 5x0, 5 m, and in private garden plots - 1, 5x0.5 m. Strawberries should be planted in 90x15 cm or 80x15 cm for single-line and 90x20x30 cm or 80x20x30 cm for two-line placement. On amateur plots, schemes, respectively, 60x20x30 cm are permissible. On mother plants, currants and gooseberries are planted according to schemes 2, 5x1, 25 or 2x1, 25. Currants can be planted closer with absolutely healthy planting material. Strawberries are placed at a distance of 90x90 cm, 100x100 cm or 90x45 cm. In warm weather, plants should be planted with watering.

To ensure good survival and rapid restoration of the growth of the root system and shoots, it is useful to water the soil well also in the first 5-6 days after planting, followed by loosening the topsoil near the plants. In autumn, when there is a lot of moisture and in cool weather, this should not be done. Planting depth is of no small importance. Currants and gooseberries are planted deeply because, under appropriate conditions, these crops can form well-developed adventitious roots on the stem part.

With a good development of the root system, the growth of shoots and the assimilation surface will be much more intensive, which will ensure high yields of berries in the future. In addition, currants and gooseberries do not have adventitious buds on the roots, so replacement shoots in these plants will form only from those buds that are located on the lower part of the stems.

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