Cabbage Scoop - An Uninvited Guest

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Video: Cabbage Scoop - An Uninvited Guest

Video: Cabbage Scoop - An Uninvited Guest
Video: Coring Cabbage and Making Sauerkraut 2024, April
Cabbage Scoop - An Uninvited Guest
Cabbage Scoop - An Uninvited Guest
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Cabbage scoop - an uninvited guest
Cabbage scoop - an uninvited guest

The cabbage scoop does more than damage the cabbage. Onions, potatoes, lettuce, beets, peas and other crops (mainly of the root or stem plan) are often the subject of her attention. You can meet this polyphagous pest literally everywhere, with the exception of the Far North

Meet the cabbage scoop

This insect is a large brown-gray moth with a wingspan of up to 50 mm. It feeds mainly on flowering vegetation; it flies mainly in the month of June. The females lay eggs on the undersides of cabbage leaves in heaps (from 10 to 40 pieces or more) in a total amount of about 600 - 700 pieces. Subsequently, the caterpillars hatching from these eggs begin to eat up decent holes in the cabbage leaves. As soon as the heads of cabbage begin to form, the caterpillars also penetrate them, gnawing through numerous passages and polluting the young heads of cabbage inside with their secretions. As a result, cabbage heads rot. Caterpillars feed at night, climbing for the day into the surface layers of the soil or into the heads of cabbage themselves.

Pupae overwinter in the soil, penetrating to a depth of 9 to 12 cm. During the growing season, only one generation is hatched in the northern regions, and in the southern regions there can be as many as three.

Control measures

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In many ways, measures to combat cabbage scoop are similar to measures against cabbage moth. You can try catching adult caterpillars by covering the cabbage heads with the bottom leaves and securing them with clothespins. Unable to get inside the heads of cabbage, the caterpillars remain behind the fastened leaves, and they are easy to collect and destroy. Pheromone traps hung from May to the first decade of September are a fairly simple way to combat the cabbage scoop.

Used to protect crops and fall plowing. With the mass pupation of these pests, it is not forbidden to cultivate aisles, eliminate flowering weeds and apply insecticides as needed. Sometimes even early planting of vegetable seedlings helps.

In order to prevent the massive appearance of pests, it is recommended to thoroughly dig up the soil in the fall, subsequently leveling it thoroughly. If the area occupied by parasites is not very large, then the collection of eggs and young caterpillars can be carried out manually. This is usually done in cloudy weather, in the morning or afternoon. Caterpillars that penetrate into the heads of cabbage can be obtained with a hook made of wire.

Foliar feeding of vegetable crops with superphosphate, as well as potassium chloride, helps a lot. Spraying cabbage heads with infusions of some insecticidal plants: hot pepper, potato tops, wormwood, burdock will also be very effective.

Butterflies of the cabbage scoop are sometimes caught by gardeners on bonfires made at night (scoops are very fond of light) or on molasses.

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Among the biological enemies of these intruders, one can note the trichogramma that destroys the eggs of the cabbage scoop. Predatory mites, which can be found in specialized stores, are also used to eliminate cabbage scoops. The cost of predatory mites, however, is quite high, and the fight against pests in areas of impressive size can result in a pretty penny.

By planting dill next to cabbage beds, you can attract entomophages - these beneficial insects live on dill inflorescences, devouring not only the caterpillars of cabbage scoops, but also other pests with appetite.

Sage and savory planted near cabbage also drive away pests. Near cabbage beds, you can also plant nasturtium, calendula or marigolds - these plants will additionally help scare off aphids.

Of the drugs used to combat the cabbage scoop, it is worth highlighting such as carbofox, fitoverm, bitoxibacillin, zeta, lepidocid, etc. They (especially the last three names) are recommended to be used for the last time at least five days before the start of harvesting. If the weather in the region is unstable, you can also purchase intavir, karate, fufanon, mospilan, actellik to destroy pests - you should work with these drugs in a respirator.

Chemical control methods are best used in cases where the cabbage has not yet formed heads of cabbage and the caterpillars are still relatively young.

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