2024 Author: Gavin MacAdam | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-12-16 13:38
The cabbage fly is the worst enemy of cruciferous garden crops. It is extremely difficult to completely evict this pest from the site, but, nevertheless, everything possible must be done to protect plants from its harmful effects
A few words about the cabbage fly
Outwardly, these insects (in size and color) resemble ordinary houseflies. As a rule, they fly out of the soil as soon as the birch blooms, and they begin to lay eggs with the beginning of cherry blossoming in cracks in the ground near the plant stems. The larvae, being released from the eggs, instantly penetrate into immature roots or stems. Numerous moves are made by them not only in cabbage stalks, but also in root vegetables of daikon, radish, turnip and radish. As a result, plants noticeably weaken, begin to wither on sunny days, and root crops lose both nutritional and market value.
The harmful larvae that have gained mass pupate near the spoiled plants. The second generation of flies appears in early July - they are no longer so harmful, because plant tissues at the level of the subsoil air layer and the upper soil layer become noticeably coarse. Accordingly, only new seedlings of cruciferous weeds will be damaged.
Cabbage fly control
One of the important protective measures is the early planting of strong and healthy seedlings (if possible, it is better to plant them in peat pots) - this is done in order to overtake the phenophase of the development of flies in the spring. Having planted the seedlings, in the first three days (and not a day later) it is necessary to pollinate it to scare away cabbage flies with tobacco (shag) dust with slaked lime, camphor, naphthalene or ash (in a 1: 1 ratio). The composition is applied as close to the stems as possible - in this case, the flies will not lay eggs near them. This technique is repeated after 6 to 7 days.
Throughout the summer season, cruciferous weeds should be controlled - both on your site and in the adjacent territories. This will help make pest egg clutches ineffective. If you regularly rake off the white and well-visible eggs of the parasites from the stems, then the larvae emerging from them will die from exhaustion. Plant life conditions are also improved by periodic loosening of the land, especially after irrigation and rainfall. Hilling contributes to the formation of additional roots, and as a result, the resistance of plants to various damages increases significantly.
It is worth mentioning that the rove beetles, as well as the larvae of these beetles, happily eat the eggs, larvae and pupae of cabbage flies. Staphilinids are black beetles with short wings and a slightly elongated body (10 - 12 mm).
Redling mites are also not indifferent to the eggs of cabbage flies - these mites very quickly suck the contents of the eggs. You can spot the rescuer mites on the soil surface.
A cardboard cuff is also a pretty good way to control pests. In order to make such a cuff, a circle cut out of thick cardboard, cut to the center, is funnel-shaped around the plant. Such an original "collar" will protect the root collar from harmful cabbage flies.
To get rid of the larvae at the end of planting seedlings or sowing seeds, ash or tobacco dust can be scattered around the rows and around the plants. Weekly pollination of plantings with dust can also do a good job - for each square meter it should be taken at 3 - 5 g, no more.
You can also water the detected cabbage fly larvae with a solution of thiophos (30%), controlling that its concentration does not exceed 0.03%. For each plant, the solution consumption is about 250 g. Cabbage is also watered with chlorophos (65%), no more than 200 g of solution is consumed per plant, and its concentration should be approximately 0.15 - 0.25%.
In the absence of the above poisons, the soil can be sprinkled with a mixture of sand with naphthalene (7: 1) or tobacco dust with lime (1: 1). No more than 300 g is consumed per 10 square meters. It is no less effective to sprinkle the cabbage itself with dry ash, however, this method should be repeated every 4 - 5 days. After loosening the beds, the plants are also sometimes powdered with ground hot pepper or dry mustard.
And, of course, in order to increase the resistance of plants to these unpleasant insects, you should follow the rules of agricultural technology.
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