Hard Veined Tomatoes

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Video: Hard Veined Tomatoes

Video: Hard Veined Tomatoes
Video: Stop worrying about tomato diseases. Watch this! 2024, March
Hard Veined Tomatoes
Hard Veined Tomatoes
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There are 3 reasons for the formation of hard tomatoes, with white, non-chewy veins. Let's try to deal with this problem. We will tell you about the reasons and what measures to take to eliminate such phenomena

The first reason is the variety

Features of the variety have different purposes: growing in cold regions, taste, disease resistance, water deficiency, suitability for canning. The work of breeders is aimed at the formation of new subspecies, with different properties, characteristics and qualities. Often their actions are reduced to variations with genetics, biology. As a result of efforts to breed new tomatoes, unexpected results appear, deviations from the basic norms of the genome, mutations occur.

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When selecting, signs and properties appear that are absent in tomato ancestors. The category of such manifestations includes changes within the fetus in the form of the appearance of white veins in the pulp and hard blotches.

Non-chewing veins, lumps in the middle of the fruit are a side effect of selection. Such varieties are not rejected, since tomatoes have a good taste, have excellent keeping quality, and are well transported. They are attractive for industrial production and trade. It is these veins that are considered the genome of longevity; they serve as a "frame" for maintaining shape. When buying seeds, you need to carefully study the characteristics of the variety and take proven options.

The second reason is illness

Tomatoes, like all nightshades, are not resistant to viral infections. Rigid veins in the pulp occur when struck by stolbur, often referred to as phytoplasmosis. This disease is spread by insects. If cotton moths, aphids, whiteflies and other pest flyers live in your region, then it is problematic to protect plants from them.

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Phytoplasmosis

The virus hibernates on the roots of garden plants and wild herbs (plantain, St. John's wort, bindweed, etc.). The symptoms of the disease are immediately noticeable. The leaves of the tops become smaller and coarser, the edges are bent upward, often acquire a purple or pink tint, the stem thickens. Peduncles are underdeveloped and deformed - they are transformed into a bell shape. With a strong defeat, the tops of tomatoes turn yellow and fall off. The fruits of diseased plants lose their taste, become hard, the pulp is colored unevenly.

The disease cannot be cured. The fight against phytoplasmosis consists in removing infected tomatoes (along with roots) from the site or burning them. Prevention: remove weeds within a meter radius, fight against insects that carry the virus. For these purposes, after planting tomatoes, use Operkot, Fitoverm, Aktara, Calypso. The next year, low-growing varieties should be planted, which are less often affected by the columnar.

The third reason is unfavorable conditions

If a tomato leaves an unripe dense greenish-whitish tissue from the stalk in the middle of the pulp, this indicates a lack of potassium. Even if there is a lot of this substance in the soil, then it is almost not absorbed by the plant in hot weather (+35 and above).

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Lack of potassium

Potassium deficiency can occur when overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. It is easy to notice this problem; the leaves will tell you about potassium starvation. This is yellowing, necrosis of the upper shoots, apical rot, dying off of cells at the edges of the lower leaves. When such symptoms appear, feed the tomatoes with potassium substances: Humate, Sulfate, Potassium monophosphate.

Even if fertilizing is carried out and there is enough potassium, then low humidity in the heat of more than +36 makes it impossible to produce lycopene. It is this substance that affects the formation of red pigment, which is important for coloring the fruit pulp.

On hot days, your actions should be aimed at alleviating the condition of your seedlings. The roots suffer from the heat, it is they who stop absorbing potassium from overheating. Mulch the beds. For tomatoes, it is important to lower temperatures at least at night. The ideal mode for obtaining high-quality fruits is + 20 … + 25.

During active flowering and at the stage of fruit formation, do not overfeed with nitrogen and reinforce liquid fertilizing with potassium solutions. Reduce the possibility of overheating. Keep the greenhouse open for constant ventilation. Whitewash the roof and south side covering. Increase the humidity through more intensive watering - at least 5-7 liters per bush per week. You can arrange containers with water for additional moisture.

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